My Powerball won�t spin past 5000rpm
Reason: The friction between the rotor support band
and the internal surface of the sphere shell has been damaged / altered
in some way.
Solution: Open the sphere shell and clean all inner surfaces
Detailed Explanation: Every new Powerball has a
perfect �bite� � that almost perfect resistance to your efforts you�ll
feel as the rotor support band revolves smoothly around the internal
platform on which it sits, driving the rotor speed ever higher with
each turn.
If you use the Powerball correctly and as instructed, maintaining a
firm grip on the ball at all times during which the rotor is spinning,
then this perfect resistance will remain for many years.
If, however, you fail to grip the ball FIRMLY during use, then the
outer sphere shell will be free to resonate in sympathy with the fierce
inertia being generated by the fast spinning, perfectly balanced rotor
(this is not a flaw in the ball by the way), a process which has a very
negative effect on the actual rotor support band (the white
polycarbonate ring which fits around the rotor inside the sphere) and
one which will cause minor wear on the band every time this occurs.
The result of this wear can be seen as a thin layer of very fine
plastic �powder� which, over time, will coat the internal platter on
which the rotor support band sits and adversely affect the perfect
frictional resistance between the band and the sphere surface,
ultimately causing a reduction in the overall speeds achievable on the
ball.
Fig A: Dust from the rotor support band on the lower sphere half
(This dust deposit can begin to take place after only a few short
days of use, again, depending on how the ball is operated, so product
age is often immaterial)
Worse still, the lovely creamy movement of the ball will diminish
and you�ll be left with a ball which feels slightly rougher and is
certainly noisier than it otherwise should be.
At the most extreme end of this fault spectrum, the worst possible
scenario is that, over time, the metal axle of the rotor will end up
literally �vulcanising� this plastic dust down into the surface of the
inner sphere as it spins around with each turn, thus altering
dramatically, the perfect surface harmony and therefore the overall
frictional resistance between the rotor support band and the sphere and
killing any opportunity to achieve a decent speed on the ball in the
future.
In such cases, you will be left with a ball which almost feels as if
it has been oiled inside (a definite no no!!) and which will yield
miserable scores (often less than 5000rpm!) to even the most skilled
operators.
If you have been guilty of operating the ball while not keeping it
firmly gripped at all times then the cure for this problem is actually
quite simple;
Open the ball up (using the following guidelines) and give all inner
surfaces a good clean with a soft, dry cloth � this will give an
instant performance boost.
Fig B: Use a soft dry cloth to clean the inner parts
In extreme cases, (generally in older balls, where this condition
has been allowed to prosper unchecked for a lengthy period) where the
surface area has become embedded/pitted with the resulting plastic
shrapnel from the support band, a very fine sandpaper rubbed over the
platter surface will also help to rejuvenate the ball�s performance in
an instant (P180 grade sandpaper or even a fine emery paper)
Finally, please be advised that the same performance deterioration
may also result from the ingression of foreign matter into the sphere
via the exposed area on the base of the ball over time - dust,
carpet/clothing fibre, tips of cords etc. these can all be ingested
into the chamber in which the rotor support band rotates and cause an
alteration in the frictional relationship between the rotor support
band and the sphere and cause a significant drop off in speed.
Once again, if this is found to be the case, simply open the sphere
shell and clean all surface areas - this should return the ball to
factory condition after a few spins (you may find performance slightly
down on previous top speeds while the parts begin to 'bed' in once
again but this will be seen to quickly improve after a few short
sessions)